Blue boards are for rookies

If you ever see someone on a long blue surfboard, they are a rookie. Or, they are teaching a rookie. So, when I went to rent a board on the beach, and the surf dude offered me the 11' blueboard, I scoffed and said with my (now-expired) surfer confidence, "I used to surf a 7'-2" hybrid but it's been awhile" so he kindly said, "well, how about the 10' white one?" (The longer the board the easier it is to catch and ride waves). So, Mr. surfboard-renter-guy could have very well let me run off with a "hybrid" and not catch a single wave, but he didn't. I suppose they can spot an amateur from a mile away.

When I got out there, to the bigger-small waves, I caught the first one (what really happened was it caught me). It felt pretty great, so great I think I actually flashed a hang loose sign while riding it - I'm not kidding, it was just a natural reaction, sort of like when Tiger Woods nails a putt and pumps his fist in the air.

Well, I didn't ride that first wave for too terribly long before falling off. Then I turned the board around to paddle out again, just in time for a rather brutal wave to pound the crap out of me. So much so that my board took off with the wave, then flew into the air, caught some wind then slammed back down to hit me on the head. It was in that moment I realized, I'm too old for this $%#@! So, I drug myself to the shore, thought about it, then walked down the beach to the kiddie waves - where my life was more in my own hands than the waves.

So, there you go, very likely my last surfing story. Or, atleast the last one that involves me surfing a board that isn't blue.